Hermitage of San Miguel de Espinalvar: Heart of the Sierra de Espinalbar

The hermitage of San Miguel de Espinalvar stands majestically in the Sierra de Espinalbar, a name derived from the espino albar, a wild shrub whose white-and-green blooms in May used to line the paths leading to this emblematic place. This sierra not only lends its name to the hermitage, but was also the heart of a deeply rooted tradition.

In earlier times, the flowering of the espino albar was cause for great celebration among the people of Valderrobres, who would set out on a pilgrimage to this hermitage. The local shepherds, well acquainted with nature's bounty, would make and sell bunches of these flowers to pilgrims, adding a picturesque touch to the festivity. This moving tradition lasted into the 19th century, and after the devastating Spanish Civil War it was revived with renewed fervour. However, an unfortunate event in the 1960s — a hailstorm — discouraged the organisers, leading to the permanent suspension of the pilgrimage along the long and demanding path from the village to the hermitage.

The Espinalbar ensemble is far more than just the hermitage; it is a micro-ecosystem of the traditional rural life of the Matarraña region. It includes the historic Masía de Dentro and Masía de Fuera, together with their pens, threshing floors and a barn. This network of buildings complements religious life with the labours of the land. Moreover, along the trail that winds from Valderrobres, walkers can find a spring with a well, a remnant of an old drinking trough carved from a tree trunk, once vital for shepherds and livestock.

The construction of the hermitage of San Miguel dates back to the medieval period, with documents attesting to its existence and its purpose of venerating Saint Michael the Archangel as early as the 14th century. Throughout its long history, the hermitage has witnessed many vicissitudes in its upkeep.

The subsequent suspension of the pilgrimage, one of its main reasons for being, condemned it to progressive abandonment and neglect, culminating in 1988 with the collapse of its roof. This event marked a low point in the building's history, though not in its spirit.

Despite its troubled past, the setting of this ensemble is unrivalled. Strategically located on the ridge dividing the fertile valleys of Pena and the Racó d'en Patorrat, the hermitage stands at an altitude of 1,158 metres. From this privileged natural viewpoint, breathtaking views unfold over the Matarraña region, offering a landscape canvas that makes the visit worthwhile in itself.

The starting point can be considered the bridge over the Pena River (or «riu Sec», according to local place names), one of the arms of the Pena reservoir; you can drive there from Beceite or Valderrobres — for more information on the reservoir click here. Take the path that runs along the reservoir on the side opposite the dam; before crossing the tunnel cut into the rock, leave the GR markers and branch off to the left, following the PR waymark. Take a track that crosses the bed of the Pena River several times — often dry.

About 4 km from the mentioned bridge, the PR marker leads into a gorge; this is the confluence of the Pena and Racó de Patorrat rivers (the riverbeds are usually dry at the surface). The trail climbs immediately to the right of the gorge, through the forest. Soon you reach a cobbled section. The ascent is steady and steep. To the left and right, panoramic views and the scents of the forest are a gift to the senses. After half an hour of trail you begin to see terraces and other signs of the former agricultural activity in the area.

Near the arrival point you emerge onto a forest track. Cross it to continue along the section of trail that, in a final ascent, leads to the hermitage and the mas of San Miguel de Espinalva. This was once the gathering place for the families who inhabited all the surrounding mas, both to celebrate religious festivals and to exchange goods and even arrange marriages. Descend by the trail that, from the track, drops away to the left; along this stretch you will pass through spots of wild beauty, such as the surroundings of the Mas Roig or the Molino de Barrancos.